Day Three: Northern Israel

After being woken up by the sound of roosters crowing (a good omen for the rest of the season?), we experienced the most incredible breakfast buffet. There are literally 10 different cheeses to choose from like goat’s milk, goat’s fetta, cows fetta, sheep’s milk, farm cheese, labne…etc. There was also home made halva (Mum’s favourite), and big slabs of home made butter…… And with the freshly baked bread...amazing. Bread and butter pudding is also served hot at breakfast! Whilst me, mum, Henry and Zac all dug into the mix of cheese, dips, spiced breads and interesting ‘hot’ buffet options…Dad simply sat at our table with his cornflakes and croissant (oh and yes, his two capaccinos). He is not really one for ‘middle eastern’ food experimentation…

We departed Mitzpeh Hayamim at 9am and headed to the neighbouring town of Tzfat – this town was the centre of 16th century Kabala and we strolled the narrow alley ways of the old city and visited a few very old synagogues, one called “The Ari” . The whole town is situated high on a hill and has a very clostraphobic feel, but also has a very warm feel, with people (mostly very religious) going about their daily lives with cheer, happy to say ‘shalom’ or ‘bokatov’ to us. Tzfat was bombed only recently during the 2nd Lebanese War.

Lunch was quite an experience – we sat in a tiny run down hole in the wall shop, at a busy intersection at the nearby town of Rosh Pina – all they do is pita with felafel, either served on a plate, and you put it all together (that is the humous and felafel and onion and Israeli salad) or they stuff it in the felafel for you. Just a few dishes on their menu – (no menu in fact, just order at the counter), and they were just incredibly fresh and delicious. Our guide Avi was teaching us the ‘traditional’ way to eat humous…with your hands.

Next we went for a Jeep ride across the River Jordan valley towards Golan Heights, to show us some Syrian Bunkers that overlooked the whole valley, and where Syrian soldiers used to sniper the Israel farmers, as they farmed their land. The jeep driver was called Nir, and he looked liked like an Australian Crocodile Dundee. He really admired my (mums) Akubra!!!! And he had real skill as he slashed the watermelon with his big knife. Altogether this was a very rough ride…with Henry ‘bruising his coccyx’ by the end of it.

We ended the day white water rafting in the Jordanian River…be it very limited ‘white water’. Whilst mum opted to nap in the shade, the boys and me were driven in a shuttle bus to a designated ‘point of entry’ into the river, where you lined up (after getting a life jacket and paddle) and were put into a big plastic boat with up to 6 people. I’m sorry this seems to be turning into a bit of a ‘dad’ bashing…but seeing dad standing in line before water rafting, wearing his little black Speedos, whilst surrounded by big, dark, hairy Israeli men chain smoking in their life-jackets and long pants, was hilarious. And while some may view this activity as a fun and ‘leisurely’ one, before we had even stepped into the raft, dad was already strategising as to how to best enter the water after being pushed down the steel ramp…”You see what they did wrong? You need to steer hard left…Henry? Are you listening?” It was beautiful floating down the river, as most of it was in shade and I was lying comfortably at the front of the boat while Henry and Dad manoeuvred us downstream. We managed to overtake approximately 62 rafts by the end of the run. Yes, the boys decided it was a competition. No surprises here, but at one point Zac was being dragged sideways along with the boat after being pushed into the icy water by Henry. I was totally incapacitated with laughter to be of any aid to him because coming up ahead of us was the most ‘rapid’ part of the water, with about a metre drop over rock. Dad had thrown down his oar and was urgently attempting to pull him back in the boat before we hit…but to no avail. Zac’s hysterical laughter indicated he was fine…but our ability to ‘act under pressure’ was shown to be severely inept. Not a great sign in the country of Israel…

Finally we arrived back to Mitzpeh Hayasmim for dinner. Avi joined us, and we all decided to eat at the ‘meat’ restaurant. This turned out not to be a simple restaurant – it was a 5 course meal, after which we were totally replete (this seems to be our recurring theme in Israel!).

B